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I would test to see if it is a leak somewhere by blocking the exhaust with a rag being held over the tailpipe and listen for any hissing noises from the engine bay....a leaking gasket, split intercooler or hose/pipe, etc From there you can inspect the condition of the turbo spindle for wear and float and rebuild or replace as necessary

Hi. I have a mk6 golf saloon off side wing for sale. It's just been sprayed but I hadn't realised a golf estate front end is different to a golf saloon. Also I have a bumper in new paint for sale and one not in paint which is damaged but repairable. Please message me if you're interested in either. Wanting around £50 for the wing. £50 for the damaged bumper and £150 for the complete, newly sprayed bumper.

2005 VW Bora Highline Needs TLC, Open to Offers, Sold as Seen. Runs and Drives 1.6 petrol 16V 57000 miles Black Leather interior Cruise Control Auto Wipers Central Locking Electric Windows all round Heated Front Seats Recently had new poly ARB bushes Recently had new discs and pads all round Known Repairs Required: Out of MOT Rear Sills Rusted (see photo's) Bodywork a little rough (see photo's) O2/lambda Sensor needs replacing (new sensor included) Brake Pedal Switch needs replacing (new switch included) Engine and Brake fault lamps on due to sensors (I have checked with VCDS) Passenger side driveshaft has excessive play (re-manufactured shaft included) Some central locking actuators a little flaky

I am hoping someone out there has the answer to my issue...... I have a very basic but immaculate Touran to which I want to add below bumper fog lights. Fitting seems straight forward BUT as a basic model, the light switch loom plug has no facility to add the trigger wire to the assembly so it contacts with the switch itself. Has anyone ever upgraded the plug such that all pins are active and the trigger wire can be inserted into the plug?

I would imagine there is one on the side and one it sits on along with a stabiliser mount on the rear (i think)

If the battery is definitely in good condition and charge is sufficient then I would look at immobiliser next It would help to get hold of a scan tool to see what codes are present and particularly any relating to the immobiliser Check the battery earth leads condition going to the chassis and engine/gearbox Let us know how you get on with it

I would start by examining the wiring from the sensor and particularly if it routes through the front end area Potential of damage to the wiring may cause the faults as its voltage related?

Hi....welcome to the Club Let us know how you get on with it when you pick it up Good to have you onboard!

Hi .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Had this on my previous car, a 2000 BMW E46, but on inspection of the shocks, I could not see more than a faint covering of fluid mist under the rubber sleeve. The "bounce test" worked ok on all 4 corners. I inspected it and did a bounce test regularly with the normal services, and it never got any worse. So I did not worry about it for 2+ years, and it is now sold. With a VW Golf MK7 replacing it !

Try these guys! https://www.actronics.co.uk/instrument-clusters?page=1&manufacturers=2101&models=1977

Thanks for the reply, As you said, the car is absolutely fine to drive, it's just irritating having the yellow light staring at me! Good idea about the obd reader.

not sure if this helps?

not sure but would be good to try one and see if it works...let us know how you get on

sounds like the immobiliser aerial by the ignition lock is not reading the key properly. I would take the car to a VW specialist for them to scan it and recode the key if necessary

Hi....welcome to the Club Glad to hear the work was done under warranty and it useful to keep the cover running for as long as possible on some vehicles. Good to have you onboard!

Hello, I’m after a genuine VW oil filter air filter and petrol pump from Mark 2F 1992 polo. Thanks

This number is on a Retention Document with the transfer fee paid. It can go on cars after 1990 reg. year so includes many Hot Golfs. Search H 6OLF registration number , after 15th.

I hear a clunk sound, it comes from front where the storage compartment is and it’s not continuous. I hear this soft clunk sound once or twice in a journey, and I don’t let it bother me too much. sometimes I notice it even when the car has been turned off. I have always assumed that it has sometime to do with car temperature I don’t know why I think that 🤷‍♂️.

more than likely an ABS sensor on the wheels, which one is another ballgame as you'll need to scan the ABS system to determine which one has failed

I would definitely check the control unit under the passenger floor as this is usually affected by water ingress and also takes out the wiring which will need replacing

Hi .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard

I've been able to order the the rubber carb mounting plate, so will fit that when it arrives. P/n 030129765 From the parts list, it call the screw, 'CO balance adjustment' I now see there is an idle mixture screw on the other side of the carb, so will have to fiddle with these two once the plate and air leak is fixed. Is there a downloadable page for the carb settings?. I see now the engine is a HZ. I also need a part number for the vacuum capsule on the Bosch distributor, the diaphragm in it is not holding a vacuum, but I think once I get the Bosch number off the distributor I might find the p/n for the capsule, unless anybody knows it pls.

Usually with Japanese import vehicles, they go through an auction house and are issued with a very comprehensive report on condition. This should be available to view from the dealer before you commit to purchase. As far as I am aware the mileages are low as generally the roads are not vast and unable to achieve high speeds and distances.

Hi, many thanks for the response. I’m not sure if I’ve resolved my concerns but think I may have. I have been assuming the Adblue range would reduce as per same miles as car was being driven IE mile for mile. Earlier this week the range reduced from 6500 miles to 6000 miles having driven 1400 miles. I decided to contact VW direct as it seemed a grey area with several possible solutions online and they have advised it depends on driving styles, driving conditions, and length of travel time amongst a host of other factors that determines the amount of Adblue used. having never used a blue motion engine before, it was a puzzle to me but considering I assumed the range was directly linked to miles driven, it seems I’ve found the answer but thank you for taking the time to respond I’ll still keep an eye on it meantime.