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I have a 2008 Touran with a 2.0 TDI 170hp engine. 2 weeks ago the RPM on idle started staying at 1100 from the usual 800-850.This happened everyday, but not every time the car was stopped. I did a check and not a single sensor or code was showing on the computer. In the meantime I changed a cracked water pipe which made the car loose about 1 liter of coolant (replaced now). And also when the RPM is at 1100 and when I press the brakes the steering wheel tends to shake or block for a fraction of a second when turning fast. Tried turning the wheel with normal RPM(800) and the steering wheel is absolutely fine. The car has been checked by many mechanics, but none have solved my problem. Anyone who has had the same problem or can give me a solution? Thanks in advance.

I have a 2008 Touran with a 2.0 TDI 170hp engine. 2 weeks ago the RPM on idle started staying at 1100 from the usual 800-850.This happened everyday, but not every time the car was stopped. I did a check and not a single sensor or code was showing on the computer. In the meantime I changed a cracked water pipe which made the car loose about 1 liter of coolant (replaced now). And also when the RPM is at 1100 and when I press the brakes the steering wheel tends to shake or block for a fraction of a second when turning fast. Tried turning the wheel with normal RPM(800) and the steering wheel is absolutely fine. The car has been checked by many mechanics, but none have solved my problem. Anyone who has had the same problem or can give me a solution? Thanks in advance.

I would test to see if it is a leak somewhere by blocking the exhaust with a rag being held over the tailpipe and listen for any hissing noises from the engine bay....a leaking gasket, split intercooler or hose/pipe, etc From there you can inspect the condition of the turbo spindle for wear and float and rebuild or replace as necessary

Hi. I have a mk6 golf saloon off side wing for sale. It's just been sprayed but I hadn't realised a golf estate front end is different to a golf saloon. Also I have a bumper in new paint for sale and one not in paint which is damaged but repairable. Please message me if you're interested in either. Wanting around £50 for the wing. £50 for the damaged bumper and £150 for the complete, newly sprayed bumper.

2005 VW Bora Highline Needs TLC, Open to Offers, Sold as Seen. Runs and Drives 1.6 petrol 16V 57000 miles Black Leather interior Cruise Control Auto Wipers Central Locking Electric Windows all round Heated Front Seats Recently had new poly ARB bushes Recently had new discs and pads all round Known Repairs Required: Out of MOT Rear Sills Rusted (see photo's) Bodywork a little rough (see photo's) O2/lambda Sensor needs replacing (new sensor included) Brake Pedal Switch needs replacing (new switch included) Engine and Brake fault lamps on due to sensors (I have checked with VCDS) Passenger side driveshaft has excessive play (re-manufactured shaft included) Some central locking actuators a little flaky

Hi All, I have an issue with my 2017 VW Sirocco R - On hard acceleration there is a squeaking / scratching sound but only under load any help would be much appreciated

I am hoping someone out there has the answer to my issue...... I have a very basic but immaculate Touran to which I want to add below bumper fog lights. Fitting seems straight forward BUT as a basic model, the light switch loom plug has no facility to add the trigger wire to the assembly so it contacts with the switch itself. Has anyone ever upgraded the plug such that all pins are active and the trigger wire can be inserted into the plug?

I would imagine there is one on the side and one it sits on along with a stabiliser mount on the rear (i think)

Thanks, I will have a look into this. Is the motor in the MK6 side mounted or does it sit on top of the mounts?

If the battery is definitely in good condition and charge is sufficient then I would look at immobiliser next It would help to get hold of a scan tool to see what codes are present and particularly any relating to the immobiliser Check the battery earth leads condition going to the chassis and engine/gearbox Let us know how you get on with it

I would start by examining the wiring from the sensor and particularly if it routes through the front end area Potential of damage to the wiring may cause the faults as its voltage related?

Hi....welcome to the Club Let us know how you get on with it when you pick it up Good to have you onboard!

Hi .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

I suppose the other way to do it is to use studding and nuts but the tensile strength may not be same as OE bolts Although saying that the standard OE bolts on VW are shocking quality so quite possibly a way forwards?

Hi, I'm having trouble finding the right information online so I thought I would ask in here. I'm looking to raise the motor in my 2011 Golf 1.6 Tdi 66kW to accommodate for slamming my car. I can't seem to find any information on the OEM engine mount bolts. I will obviously need to replace them with longer bolts but I'm having trouble finding the specs for the OEM ones. On top of this, I'm not sure how many of the OEM bolts I will need to replace with the longer ones. If anybody has any information that could help me, it would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

Had this on my previous car, a 2000 BMW E46, but on inspection of the shocks, I could not see more than a faint covering of fluid mist under the rubber sleeve. The "bounce test" worked ok on all 4 corners. I inspected it and did a bounce test regularly with the normal services, and it never got any worse. So I did not worry about it for 2+ years, and it is now sold. With a VW Golf MK7 replacing it !

Hi from new owner of VW Golf MK7 1.4 !!

Hello all, picking up a Passat 2015, blue motion, tech gt in two weeks. Looking forward to some interaction and finding any usual faults.

Hi well loved 2005 VW sharan 1.9 TDi, was driving fine, parked up at shops, came back and no lights or dials on dash when I turn the key except door open light, and won’t fire, turns over no problem. Towed back to house, checked battery, checked fuses, new relay 109 still no joy!!! Seams like no ECU com/no fuel pump? Could it be the immobiliser? Tried disconnecting battery and shorting red and black wires still nothing. Now the alarm goes off when I reattach the battery!! Anyone else had this or know what the problem might be???? Please help 😢

Hi all, I a newby to this forum, so please bear with! My 2014 MK7 Golf GT has developed a very intermittened fault, started last week when the EPC light came and it went into limp mode, went away for a little while then came back with the addition of the engine (cat fault) light. The codes I have from the OBD2 are as follows: P0122 [0x0122] Throttle position (TP) switch A/accelerator pedal position (APP) switch A - low input Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Status: Confirmed ---------------------------- P0222 [0x0222] Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - low input APP Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage Status: Confirmed So seems to be a fault with the TPS. I had a minor accident and got the car back about a month ago, wasn't serious and was repaired, but there was damage to the bumper, bonnet, ACC camera etc etc. I know its quite tight with probably only 3" or so of clearance to the throttle body assy. I didn't see if the damage was enough to impact the throttle body and maybe caused a latent failure thats just now shown up. Thoughts on this would be much apprecited?? Also, I've been looking, without success, can the TP sensor for a mk7 golf be bought on its own or do I have to buy the whole throttle body assy? Thanks for any comments.

Try these guys! https://www.actronics.co.uk/instrument-clusters?page=1&manufacturers=2101&models=1977

Hello, I have a 1998 vw t4, the instrument cluster (plug in with clock on the right) has burnt out not repairable. I have scoured around for a few weeks now and found nothing. I was wondering if this model of van has the plug on the gear box still that I could install an older model with the cable and plug? Is this something someone has done? the cable version with the Rev counter seems to be in stock on eBay and such. I’m not even bothered if the Rev counter works just need a speedo I believe to get through Mot?

Thanks for the reply, As you said, the car is absolutely fine to drive, it's just irritating having the yellow light staring at me! Good idea about the obd reader.

not sure if this helps?

That's a shame you're getting trouble with it already but they are a bit renowned for their warning lamps. Most will be okay to drive with such as Amber coloured lamps which are advisory but worth checking out at some point before the fault becomes more expensive to fix (e.g. brake pads low, etc) It may be worth your while to obtain an OBD scan tool which you can interrogate the warning lamps and read the codes yourself, quite cheap to buy and can lead to a greater understanding of what is occurring within the car Maybe someone on here can recommend a good one to buy?