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Hello, sorry for the late reply. My mum happens to own that car and is happy to say it’s still going strong! It’s got about 246000 on the clock. My mums not looking to sell the car unfortunately but I thought I’d let you know that it’s still on the roads!

Hi All While I’m not any great audiophile, since purchasing my MK8 I’ve always been disappointed with the standard audio system. I came from a MK7, later fitted with the Helix DSP subwoofer upgrade, and tried to find a plug & play equivalent with no success. I then found that in the US and Canada there were many great reviews of a centre speaker upgrade, with a company based in Canada offering a modified replacement. The feedback across Facebook and other platforms seemed to be 100% positive, with reports of this single speaker upgrade “bringing the system alive”, “better balancing the overall system”, “providing amazing clarity and crisper sound”, “better vocals”, lifted bass at all levels”, “the missing element to make complete”, etc. Clearer phone calls have also been mentioned. I just had to try this for myself, so due postage costs and fees/duty, a few months ago I set about designing my own plug and play version. Being a former aircraft engineer I appreciate detail and wanted something truly OEM+ and which could be retrofitted easily. After much research I concluded that two stages of upgrades were possible for the MK8. The first using the Audison AV 3.0 using an inverted cotton fibre cone, has significantly more power and is an upgrade in all respects while maintaining the same impedance, which is important. Taking this a step further uses the Hertz Mille speaker with its V-cone, Neodymium magnet assembly and the threespoke anti-resonant aluminium alloy basket with vented holes. Only the Hertz is compatible with the MK8.5 (facelift). To make the speaker fit as a plug and play option I cut the original speaker about to create a template for an adapter plate, and had someone 3D print them, which was then riveted to the replacement speaker, picking up on the original dashboard mounting holes. Moving to the wiring, I wanted OEM quality, so created a conversion lead using new quality connectors and pins. The harness is plug and play. To say I’m pleased with the outcome of both would be an understatement. It’s hard to believe that this one speaker replacement can make such a difference, even at low volume levels. I have to agree with the feedback above. This is a true plug and play modification, and the best quality and most compatible solution to blend with the OEM set ups. No change to the existing loom necessary and swapped back in minutes. After a few months I refitted the OEM speaker to take the photos for a fitting guide, and what a difference - I’d clearly got used to the improved setup! I’ve since upgraded my door speakers and tweeters to Focal, and the centre speaker is still easily holding its own even with this set up. Anyway, just wanted to share my project. Far from the cheapest mid speakers available, but I wanted proven brands and after experimenting with two different cheaper speakers first, I decided that these easily provided the best improvement and therefore worth the extra. There does not appear to be any off the shelf plug and play solutions available in the UK. After making these for members of other forums I thought I'd offer them on here, as I've benefited from much information shared on here in the past. They are £149.00 (Audison) and £229 (Hertz) plus £6.95 postage (Royal Mail 24 Tracked Signed and Insured) in the UK (international post and customs extra). Fitting involves lifting out the grill (trim tool works well just clips hold in place), removing 3 x T20 speaker mounting screws, disconnecting the electrical connector, and fitting the replacement. Despite it being straight forward, I’ll provide a fitting guide with photos. No dash errors or issues. Any questions please ask/send a PM. Cheers.

It does sound like the park position is not being recognised by the motor. First thing to check is the wiring going into the tailgate from the back of the roof which sometimes breaks where the wires bend with the opening and closing of the boot. Pull back any rubbers to see if there are any broken wires.

The rear window wiper does not complete a full sweep to stop in the park position. When I switch it off, it can stop anywhere in the sweep. I have to switch it on then off a couple of times, then it will stop in the park position. Could it be the park switch in the motor, or is it getting a signal to stay going from somewhere ?

Ah that would make sense! Thank you for sharing the feedback and sure someone will come across this problem (and solution) in the future. Glad you got it sorted - nice simple and cheap fix !

Ok I make this post to assist anyone who may experience this problem at some time in the future. We have resolved this problem. We had two keys and it has transpired that one of the keys was defective and triggered the immobiliser so wouldn't start It starts every time with the good key. So hope this may help someone Thanks.

Automatic transmissions do have a 'take up' within the drivetrain but equally it could be low on fluid or require a fluid and filter change. I would recommend to take to an automatic transmission specialists (may be difficult to find and may not be local) but definitely worth getting them to check it out before it potentially gets any worse

Sorry for the delay in replying. Thank you, i will take a look tomorrow 👍

I'm the proud owner of a 10 plated 1.9i automatic but I've an issue I need to address. When I start her up I have to put it into reverse and draw back a cpl off feet then put into drive where I have to wait for it to "bump" forward!!! What could be the issue and how could I fix said issue. Thanks in advance.

I should have mentioned it has a new battery and starter motor and cranks over very well

Maybe possibly the battery - had the same issue on a Golf and just not enough current to turn the engine over and power the electronics - once started was fine Also, check the crankshaft sensor and replace if necessary

I have a 2009 1.2 polo match (N9) If it starts it runs v.well but sometimes it just won't start it's had new spark plugs and a coil no codes or errors are displayed no dash warning lights. Fuel pump working. we checked earthing points and cleaned. we inspected connectors to ecu and found them to be clean. On assembly we tried to start and it did. worked for a couple of days then not starting again. It hasn't stopped working when the engine has been running and no symptoms when driving. Any ideas and does anyone know where all the earthing points are. Oh yes we did take all the plugs out and there was no spark so we think it must be some sort of electrical issue So hoping somebody has had similar and maybe a solution Thanks in anticipation Martin

I would open the tailgate and pull back the rubber gaiter that houses the wiring from the vehicle to the tailgate. If the wiring is broken then that is your issue - simple repair to the wiring, refit the gaiter and job done

Hi there :). I have a polo mk 4. The rear wiper on my polo isn't working. It's had a new motor but still won't work, so i suspect the stalk or, god forbid the wiring somewhere. I've also checked the fuse which seems good. The washer on it works ok and the front ones are fine. Before i go and purchase a new switch, can anyone else who'd had a similar issue advise me at all please ? TIA Debz

A further update on our imported Passat. No issues at all, everything is running spot on as it was when we purchased it. I have however managed to resolve a minor inconvenience with car insurance websites not finding our registration plate (it's due for renewal so I started searching around a week ago). It's worth stating that I don't know if this should have been done by the DVLA, or the dealership that imported our vehicle. First I contacted the DVLA, as I'd wrongly assumed this is where the insurance companies would pull the registration plate from. They told me they sell the data to various 'bulk data companies' but would not tell me which companies unless I submitted a freedom of information request (despite them admitting it was public information anyway). I contacted one company (MIB) who couldn't help me, but explained the process a bit. There is a DVLA Bulk Data Set document which lists all the data sharing companies at the bottom, these companies buy the data from the DVLA, and I gather then sell it to the various car insurance companies. I sent the same email to all of them requesting if our car could be added to the database. One of the companies advised me to contact Thatcham, as they are primarily responsible for linking all the vehicle data to an insurance ABI code (which is what the data sharing companies use and share with the insurance companies when you type your reg in on the insurance website) All of the replies I had wanted the details below, so probably best to add it in with your initial email. Make: Model: Transmission: Number of forward gears: Fuel Type: Engine size (CC): Body Shape (Saloon, convertible for example) Number of doors: Drive Type (FWD, RWD, AWD): Power (KW or BHP): Seating capacity: Email address for Thatcham, and the data sharing companies below that wanted the car details and ABI code (the others either didn't reply or told me they weren't relevant for insurance websites) Customer.enquiries@thatcham.org, businessuk@experian.com, enquiry@infopro-digital.com, help@ukvehicledata.co.uk DVLA Bulk Data.pdf

not sure if it is turbocharged but if so then it is more than likely a hole or split in the pressure side of the turbo or intercooler

Hi guys, I’m new here, I have a 2019 1.0 tsi manual touran with 46k miles. in first gear and reverse with light acceleration I get a sound, the best way I can describe it is like the Knight Rider Kitt front red light sound (kkhwooowkh). this sound appears when I release the accelerator, it makes the sound even when in neutral but not as loud when in gear. Its also only giving 26mpg, this may be down to heavy body for the 1.0 engine but still is very low, I have had the clutch and flywheel checked, this is fine and bites where It should be. No flywheel sound, air filter box pipes all secure. any ideas please. Thanks

Hi all, First post on here to get some info about imported vehicles. Im looking at 2017 Japanese import B8 Passat that comes fully loaded. I understand the DAB wont work unless I change the MIB unit over and fit a DAB aerial. However, does Apple carplay and android auto work on the standard system?

Price now reduced to £21,829!

A dream to drive - my pride and joy! Only selling as we are moving countries. £22,829 ONO - Almost perfect condition - Full service history 20inch Gloss-black painted Alloy Wheels - Suzuka, Adaptive Cruise Control, Alarm with Interior protection, Park Assist, Lane Assist, Car-Net App Connect + Security and Service including eCall, Navigation Touch-Screen Infotainment System, Driver Alert System - Fatigue Detection, ESC - Electronic Stability Control, Front Assist - Radar Sensor Controlled Distance Monitoring System - City Emergency Braking System and Predictive Pedestrian Protection, Fog Lights, R-Line Logo Seats, Heated Front Seats, Keyless Entry, Electric Tailgate Operation, Panoramic Sunroof, Parking Sensors - Front and Rear, Pedals - Stainless Steel, Piano Black Front Air Intake and Rear Diffuser, R-Line Styling Pack, Rear Tinted Glass - B Pillar Backwards, Suspension - Sports - Lowered by Approx 15mm, Unique R-Line Badging and Door Sill Protectors, Winter Pack.

Thank you very much, very helpful.👍

There is a Memory Saver available to connect to a slave battery and into the cigar lighter socket or the OBD port It will keep everything in memory once you disconnect the vehicle battery

Hi, I have a 2009 Golf V 2.0 TDI and need to change the starter motor. How do I prevent losing all the codes when I have to disconnect the battery? I don't have a plug-in diagnostic reader to reset anything and wouldn't know how to use one. If I lose the codes how do I find out what they were or is there a default setting? As you can tell I don't have any knowledge about codes as my mechanical skills are centred around vehicles from the 60s to the 80s. Thanks in advance for any advice. Rupert

Looks amazing original condition - what a great car from a really good era for car manufacturing. Make sure you check under the passenger floor area for any water ingress into the ECU that is in there

My 1997 B5 passat. Last owner had it 16 years, always garaged, full service history, and everything and I mean everything still works. Original tool kits, first aid kit ect