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For sale pair of Thule wing edge bars for Golf Estate Mk7 with rails. £160 collection from CR3

thank you

I think it may be better to use a scan tool to check the errors and reset the lights from there

Thanks for posting the solution that will be helpful to other members with this issue

Just to add to this, I have numerous warning signs come up on dash. It has happened once before and I think I cleared them by confirming tyre pressures, but it won't do it this time . any ideas?

I’ve now solved this. I’d narrowed the problem down to a length of the wiring loom where it emerged from the tubular boot hinge and into a series of connectors (the others being for the various lights) I was pretty convinced movement of a broken wire, opening and closing the boot lid, was the cause of the problem - but there was no evidence of wear or damage. I proceeded to carefully strip the fabric covered binding tape to inspect the wires. The insulation on pretty much all the wires in this sanction was cracked and had separated leaving sections of wire frayed and in some places severed altogether - successful contact was dependent on movement of the boot. I set about painstakingly repairing the breakages with insulation tape, discovering the wiring for the boot catch by a process of elimination. The boot catch is now operable via all three methods (remote, driver’s door, external handle). That section of the loom will have to be replaced in the long term but everything including the lights is now working. It’s a guess, but the possible cause of this perishing might be to do with water running down the boot hinge onto the wires and getting them wet, then being damaged by changes in temperature. I’ve noticed after heavy rain showers the interior trim on the CC’s boot lid has a tendency to fill with water inside - which then sloshes out down the hinges. The rubber seal is fine but I think the trim, at some point has been improperly refitted and is routinely trapping it open. Anyway. I hope this helps somebody else at some point.

Well I suppose if they work and have done for that amount of miles then they should be good to fit. Not sure if you have to code them in though?

Thats a tough one and I can only imagine the best way forward would be to replace the seat with something more suitable to you. Scrapyard would be my first port of call for a replacement seat

New to this but I’ve had to replace my 4 injectors as the their either dead or near to death as their the cars on 174000miles. When I looked at the part number on my old injectors, they were of 04L not 03L. The picture is of the injector which came out my car. I rang a breakers yard and they told me it’s the wrong injector and that my code is 03L. I’ve ordered a new set of injectors with which are the same as the picture below but I’m concerned due to also checking online that they are not meant for mine but were working perfectly for the however long I’ve owned the car. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Hi all, I purchased my 2014 Touran (2.0 TDI BlueMotion Tech Sport) back in 2018 to replace an ageing BMW 320D M Sport touring. The main Idea of the Touran was that I could load my mountain bikes into the back of the car which would mean they were more secure if I needed to leave the vehicle unatended. This works great as I can easily fit two bikes in with the front wheels removes. The issue I'm having is with the actual journey. I Travel around 250 miles from the Midlands to Wales for better mountain bike trails but on the journey back I'm in so much pain with my right knee that it's almost impossible to drive. I have tried various seat positions, used nuts and longer bolts to alter the angle of the seat base by various degrees as the one fitted only raises or lowers (no angle adjustment). I have tried a knee support on these long journeys and have even taken pain killers ahead of the journey. Has anyone else had this issue and found a solution. I have thought about upgrading the seat but I'm unsure about any issues with the electrics and airbag. In the BMW my leg was a lot straighter than it is in the Touran and I think that is the main issue. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I would be tempted to pull off the trim in the boot area which may lead you to find the problem. Managed to resolve a similar issue on a Toyota recently and it turned out to be a plastic clip that had dropped into the latch mechanism

Yesterday, my boot stopped opening via either the remote, catch or the button on the door so I’m having to open it manually from the inside. Having ruled out the remote, the boot deadlock switch (in the glove compartment on some US models apparently) I began to inspect the catch. Here’s the thing: When the boot is actually open, the boot catch works via all the usual methods (remote, external handle, driver’s button), however, as soon as it’s shut it no longer functions. This lead me to investigate the possibility of the wiring becoming trapped or damaged by the hinge being in the closed position. I cannot find any evidence of external damage but concluded possibly that the wire inside might possibly have been severed by being crushed etc? This makes sense - but even having freed the cable so it’s not being moved by the action of opening and closing the boot I’m baffled as to why the catch still works consistently 100 percent of the time when the boot is open and doesn’t 100 percent of the time when it’s closed. It’s as if there is some sort of gyroscope in the boot catch? Anyone have any ideas?

Engine mounts? Subframe mounts? Anti-Roll Bar Links? Any of the above can cause a similar noise

Thank you for your advice, They have checked the ECU already, no fault codes stored in there, I will ask them to check the ABS and other sensors, thanks you

It would be advisable to scan the ECU to see what fault codes are stored in there. Could be anything from engine management to ABS related faults, maybe something simple though

It looks like the vacuum hose from the Brake Exhauster which is driven from the engine. It would be quite vital to get this sorted as soon as possible. Looks like there are some other hoses that have some chaffing wear on them as well

The window regulator is cheap to buy and relatively easy to fit if you have basic handtools List of parts on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=volkswagen+golf+mk7+drivers+side+window+regulator&_sacat=131090

Knocking over bumps,new hangers all round,spring rubbers silicones,still have knocking cheers

Hi all, I have a Touran Trendline S 1.6 TDI 90 BHP 5, Diesel, 2012. Everyday when I start driving and the car is cold I get an exclamation mark on the cruise control and the car enters "emergence mode". I have to switch off and on the car in order to the error goes away. When the car gets warm it doesn't happen at all. Has anyone ever had something similar? Thanks, Rodolfo

It's a 1.9tdi

Hi I've just found a hose spraying fluid over the engine bay and I'm trying to ide tidy the hose or a part number,it's the one I'm pointing to,if I can't find a replacement hose am I OK to fix it with silicon tape as a temporary measure,got a busy few days on I need the car for,thanks

Hi there ladies and gents, I'm trying to run a microphone through the aux connection on my sharan.. it works but there is a horrible delay on the system as I think its getting processed through the onboard computer. is there any way to have another way to fit the aux... maybe direct link to a channel of some kind on the ba k of the head unit? I want to run my tablet and aux at the same time. I know I can't use Bluetooth and aux at the same time but I do have a mixed and had planned to run both through the aux. I had a 2018 caddy which looked to have the same unit and it worked fine. any help on the matter would be appreciated. maybe older version of firmware for the radio could help? I'm unsure tried everywhere. only suggestions I have is to run a mini amp through the speakers and do it that way, but I'd rather not go ripping stuff out and have to fit aby more crap if at all possible. trying to find a user manual for the stereo to see what connections I could utilise.

Hi all, Has anyone changed this? Is it difficult? I've been quoted crazy ££ from VW dealer

I believe it is the turbo variable vanes which are stuck in place with carbon and needs cleaning. Here is a link to a cleaning kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323958600044?hash=item4b6d6ff16c:g:basAAMXQfvlSg4~P

I have a 51 plate 1.9 tdi pd 130. there is a lack of power and when it hits a certain rev in every gear it drops 50% power. turn ignition off and back back on and the same rubbish power is back( to original low power). any ideas folks? mate said it may be the EGR valve. clues please folks. regards and thank you