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I don't believe it will need coding if it is a direct replacement part The only time it would be necessary is if it is part of the ADAS system on the windscreen and then it would need to be calibrated

I would consult a campervan specialist as there will be items such as charging relay and switches that would need to be added to ensure it is safe from overcharging, etc

Hi All, Has anyone else done this? I'm part way through and would be interested in others experiences in particular adding in a leisure battery. Easy or not?

Hey Peter I actually have a sat nav for the polo blue GT with all the attachments etc If want, then let me know as mines not fitted, bought it on a wim and selling my car so not point in retrofitting Regards Tan

Came to car today and wasn't locked but sure I locked it then put key in the ignition and nothing (dash don't light up and car won't start) if I press odometer button milage shows Any input would be very much appreciated 👍🏻

Hi all: my front lane assist camera on my vw golf GTD mk7.5 is faulty. I just bought a new one to replace it. Will it need coding when I install it? If so does anyone have the correct steps to do this using VCDS?

Update for anyone searching for same issue. It was simple. Spent weeks getting quotes to fix, days trying to work out how to do it myself wondering and worrying if I had to prise off the central dashboard to remove the fan switch and replace the whole fan switch unit. Then I got a Haynes manual and watched a video on how to do it. Ordered a new resister and pollen filter on line. Spent about an hour setting everything out.. tools I might need (didn't need any), torch, padded mat to lay on by car and looking up in the passenger footwell contemplating the task. Then I went for its and it took me five minutes! One video from an 'old hand' suggested that the resisters usually go for a reason. That might be a worn fan motor/fan bearing or a blocked up air filter and that you should drop the fan to check it spins OK etc and change the pollen filter as a matter of course. The two plastic screws holding the flock covered flexible panel in the footwell unscrewed by hand and that pulled out easily. Also removed the plastic panel on the inner (gearbox) side of the footwell. That is just held by two press in studs. I would recommend marking the location of this before removal with pencil crosses across the joint with rest of housing so that it's easier to line up the studs when refitting as you cant see them. That exposes the whole fan system. The Motor/fan is to the left and it dropped down easily, just release catch and anticlockwise twist. Spun fan round and it sounded pretty smooth..reinstall. Pollen filter is held by a front panel that you just slide to the left and it drops out.. watch for dust.. I put an old towel in the footwell to catch anything. It had a lot of dust. Note the orientation removing. Reinstall new one. Put flat panel front back on inserting lugs through the slots in the filter face and slide firmly to right. Thats done. Fan resister slots into front of pollen filter housing. It's right infant of you when you look in there. Take the new one with you. Push toggle up and it slides up and then out. Check orientation and angle as you remove it. remove wire connector (has some tiny clips each end of the black wire plug lift these at same time as trying to pull plug away from resister block. Reinstall into new resistor right way round then reinstall resistor into slot at correct angle and then slide down to secure. Reinstall footwell panels, Job done.

I am selling my cherished number plate after 20 years of ownership. Perfect for a VW owner Plate is currently on retention. £3500 Certificate will be sent by registered post

Drivers door interior door assembly loose, moves up and down, any ideas on what secures it, diagram would be useful

Hi, And thanks for link and advice. My problem is I have no idea where this bit is or how to get to it and I am very reluctant to start trying to pry sections of the dashboard away searching for it and cause more serious damage by breaking a lug or something. When I originally bought the Touran I couldn't find a Haynes manual but I now have one on order. But I would really appreciate any advice from anyone who knows how to get to the Fan blower resisters. All the Best Peter

It does sound like the resistors have burnt out and if speed 3 drops out it only leaves speed 4 directly running through no resistors. Here is a link to the part which is incredibly cheap - fitting may be a little awkward but easy enough to replace https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370625832914?fits=Car+Make%3AVW|Cars+Year%3A2012|Model%3ATouran&_skw=2012+vw+touran+heater+resistor&itmmeta=01JJP7V9E9KSY7N66MPF2HBNVX&hash=item564b0567d2:g:8cEAAOSwhilZaIht&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKn%2BBd4b61r9iUk5%2Fni3yiSZj5X%2Be0hU4IK8WwT8qKVFWC%2FkcRTTnAu1395RkkrqdEk5vHPx3AgcWnYw2L84rYqk4713Rm208dVjfWBPVzexWeWvOZynUIAxkgiiQGgouYywmmX2%2F1Zq5cUYWsislXEsdV8WYGNNsvEIwYjyqNH38aUVpnxLXG4tb7oB5FkIm%2BHU98TCM%2Bu3NhYp7erJn2NK6bU5Jr2l%2FqDdwZYtlcaCMNkUWRGU%2FwGIhiTeAR5xe1JdxorzqcZU9dgdTheY4rv74Mo4AZDqyds3btv3FUXJplfQ3Hdu8mDZk1N2c8yqaN8%3D|tkp%3ABFBMpJftx5Vl

It would be interesting to know what they find during the service - whether it is a mechanical or electronic issue. Maybe just needs some recoding to restore the correct settings

Hi, No expert but noticed this looking at my post about the cabin fan. We had to have our passenger window mechanism changed on our 2012 Touran by VW but after it was done we found the indicator in the wing mirror didn't work and I assumed it was a loose wire on reassembly. But after taking it apart again VW said it was a 'Reprogramming' issue. Apparently changing the window motor/mechanism upset the computer (which controls everything) and it had to be reprogrammed. Just something to consider checking. All the Best Peter

Hi I have a 2.0 litre diesel 2018 plate with a DSG gear box. I had the mechatronic box replaced in Nov-23 and last year I started to notice it was occasionally "slipping" between 2nd and 3rd gears i.e. revving well over 2000 (it would normally changed 2nd to 3rd at about 2000 revs). Some times it would change automatically after the high revs, some times I would slow down and it would then change. I had never paid attention to the rev's before I had the fault that resulted in the new mechatronic (that was a complete failure with no warning, leaving me with just 2,4 and 6th gears). The "slipping" was very infrequent. I mentioned this to the independent VW/Audi specialist garage I have always used and they road tested it and typically there was no slippage and there was nothing on the car log when they checked that. They told me to monitor it. It seems to have got worse and has happened around half a dozen times in Jan. Yesterday it actually shot up to around 4000 revs when going from 2nd to 3rd and then again to 2500 all in the space of a 10 minute drive. It's going in for a general service to the same garage and I will be raising it with them again (I got a 2 year parts and labour warranty) The new mechatronic cost me £3,000 all in and I'm pretty sure it never did this before that was fitted. I would appreciate any insight into what could be causing this - I know very little about cars! Also, not sure if it is over revving when idling - it sits at about 1000 revs, is that too high? Last question - just in case, does anybody know DSG specialist in the Reading, Berkshire area? I have looked on Google but cannot find anybody. I don't really want to take it to VW but would like to get a second opinion. Any responses would be much appreciated - thanks! 😀

Hi all - I’m new to the forum and grateful to have found you. I’m hoping to get some advice. Passenger door window on my 55 Reg B6 doesn’t move up or down. (securely stuck in up position) There is power to the motor from driver and passenger door switches as heard by the “click” when pressed. My suspicions are that it is the motor that is faulty and not anything to do with the tracking, cables or regulator. Question:- Can I replace the motor in its place without having to remove the whole metal panel and its components. Are there any risks to the window dropping / smashing if I remove the motor without securing the window first. Any other things I should look out for? Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi, Can anyone offer advice on how to sort out a problem with our cabin fan switch. We have had our Touran since 2012 when I retired, we have done a lot of miles touring in it, and it's been fantastic. We have always had it serviced by the main dealer and had them sort out any niggles. As it is getting a bit old we have decided that the main dealer prices are a bit disproportionate to its value now but it has developed a fault which I suspect may be a main dealer job and would like a bit of advice before splashing out for that. The cabin fan switch is only working on #3 and #4. If the switch is just a direct line to the fan with different resisters for each setting then I assume that the resisters in the #1 and #2 circuit have failed. Simple as that may sound I suspect with the main dealer that will be the complete removal of all the consul and the complete replacement of the heater consul along with a hefty bill. I have checked fuses are OK. I can't see the relay for the fan as that appears to be hidden somewhere behind the console panels but I am assuming that if it works on 3 and 4 its not going to be either of those anyway. I am fairly competent with a soldering iron and a wood saw but taking cars apart has never been my thing and I have never tried to take a console apart. So my question is, Is there an easy fix for this? One that doesn't involve taking the cabin apart. Or, is this a job I should be able to get something like Kwik-Fit or a local garage to do. All the Best Peter

Thanks for the detailed feedback once more Tom....always interested to know how issues can be resolved with imported vehicles

Hi All After correspondence with various VW UK dealerships, VW UK customer service, VW Germany customer service... they half committed to a response that the infotainment system (MIB2 unit) is regionally specific to Japan and therefore VW UK may struggle to connect or diagnose faults with it. Multiple dealerships would not even allow me to make a diagnostic booking with them just to see what they could/couldn't scan successfully. VW 'type approval' eventually said they 'should' be able to connect to our vehicle with ODIS, but because it wasn't originally built for the UK market, their VMS (Vehicle Management System) may not find the registration number or VIN and they confirmed the concern about the infotainment system. VW confirmed they have no internal process to swap the car to the UK region, no comparison documents to highlight key differences, and no retrofit solutions to align it to a Passat built for the UK market. Literally zero interest from anyone at VW. It appears that everything I've received from VW though is backwards/nonsense. As I have found independent specialists (such as ADS in Preston) who can connect to all components in the car without any problem at all. They have worked on imported cars before and have the same level of ODIS software as VW UK, as well as VCDS (Ross Tech). The only difference between the UK and Jap Passat seems to be the MIB2 unit (No DAB), and obviously no DAB antenna. For DAB that I can get via my phone on android auto, it isn't worth swapping the MIB2 unit and having a DAB antenna installed (but its possible) I had an interim service and full inspection at ADS, they confirmed the car is in pristine condition (even underneath, due to the anti corrosion treatments the cars have in Japan) so I have peace of mind now that our vehicle can be supported at last! I hope some of this information helps someone else researching about buying a VW from Japan! Tom

not tried them but would imagine any protection is better than nothing especially in supermarket car parts If you do get some and try it out then do let us know how you get on with it

Hi....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Hullo hullo

Hi, does anyone have experience of using these please? My brand new Golf got 'dinged' on its very first outing in a public car park and I don't want to have to keep getting a 'paintless repair' done each time this happens - as it surely will over time!

I had it towed back to him yesterday. Sorry if I sounded like I was badmouthing him, it was not intended to be that way. I truly am just looking for any suggestions that I can get. It scared me as I have my grandbabies in my car a lot. Thank you for the response.

Hi all, I have bitten the bullet and updated my Golf Mk 7 with a highline reversing camera as a Christmas project and I have fallen foul of the onscreen Park Assist/PDC not working when the sensors are triggerd or from the button unless I set the camera as a lowline losing the extra views. I know it's not a huge deal but my OCD has kicked it..... From what I understand, the gateway module firmware needs updating from the current 5Q0 907 530 AC to 5Q0 907 530 AM. I have spoken to a couple of independent garages with ODIS access who shared horror stories of the ODIS connection working, going through the motions but not doing the update. Eventually it turned out that VW are blocking firmware updates. VCP was mentioned as an alternative - can anybody recommend somebody with VCP close (ish) to Cambridgeshire in the UK? Preferably with some experience in firmware updates as I understand that the parameters may need to be reset. Thanks in advance :-)

I would be tempted to return it to the mechanic that originally replaced the timing chain and give them a chance to review their work as it may be possible something has not gone back correctly when reassembling. The fact that the engine is running is a good sign that it is not timing chain related (we hope) but more anciliary items such as Air Conditioning pump or drivebelt that is too loose/tight, loose pipe(s)....worth checking the obvious stuff first which may be easy to resolve