tonyholbury

Other wise quickest cheapest fix is use a spray EGR/TURBO cleaner into the air intake followed by a can of EGR/TURBO cleaner into the tank, but first crawl under the car and check the actuator arm to the Turbo is not stuck, if it aint stuck, then clean then clean or replace the MAF sensor, (quick and cheap) followed by the vacuum control box behind the battery, I did all three and it was cheap under to run cleaner throught the system followed by changing the MAF (£20 for a cheap one) and £30 for a second hand vacuum control box Plus £15 and £26 for a spray cleaner and a can of JLM into the tank. Other thing to check is of course the vacuum hoses, if its got holes in it no vacuum, no vaccum no control over either the Turbo or the EGR valve.

Also see OVERBOOST/LIMP HOME on the newbies section, just posted on another problem that can screw up yer turbo

I had a problem when my 2007 1.9tdi Touran went into limp home mode. The tester said OVERBOOST Crawled under car and pulled on the Turbo boost arm and it was free so not jammed by soot. Bought a second hand vacuum control box, (NOT the N75 as stated in some you tube videos Removed battery for access To remove box undo four torx screws, then slip off two clips on the hose plug end, finally unclip the control electric plug, reverse procedure to refit. Only pain in the backside was the torx screwsm, you cannot see all of them and you need something like a 1/4 drive with a short extension to get in their and apply enough pressure to undo them, mine were tight. As a belt and braces man I also replaced the mAF sensor you need a 5 point security torx to undo these WHY SECURITY SCREWS???? Anyhow all done and after warmup engine will now, rev beyond 3000rpm, all fixed. One question This car is supposed to do mid fourties MPG Only Does 36 which is crap compared to my last diesel a KIA Carens which would do 42+ PS put this in the newbie section as I believe over boost is a fairly common problem with all VWs with variable vane Turbos PPS use a can of EGR/Turbo cleaner once or twice a year, most of them get jammed by soot build up PPPS anyone want a brand new N75 valve??

Personally Im always gentle on the clutch changes so I think the DMF is a waste of money and partly replaces the 'snatch springs' in a normal clutch plate a DMF plate has no snatch springs or at least the Carens didnt.

My Caren started clutch slipping towing the van to Weymouth got the DMF/Clutch replaced at a cost of £720 The Touran conked out van towing and that set me back £731 for a car/van tow (to Santa pod)/taxi to collect car and replaced fuel pump

Was only about 34mpg but having dosed the tank with injector cleaner, pumped up the tyre pressure a couple of PSI higher and with use of the cruise control which doesnt follow Engine note or the car in front when I brimmed the tank I had put in 33L for 367 miles and that worked out at 50mpg Miles divided by Litres multiple by 4.52 give you MPG

This is the puzzle the reader on live data shows ZERO....0 but the pedal must work as the engine follows the throttle pedal?? I believe this is a 6 wire plug so perhaps the reader takes its info from a second variable resister and that has failed, it isnt throwing a code for this so I will try a second hand pedal I believe most cars have dual outputs but I thought if one failed a code would show???

I prefer talk radio and chat shows but sadly as windscreen DAB aerials dont work particularly well I will have to pop a hole in the roof of the Touran as it appears to use a screen heater aerial

Could be someone polished the car with pledge, dont laugh the stuff works! and sprayed into the scuttle air intake area OR has clear wax oiled the scuttle to reduce rusting, mind you wax oil stinks of paraffin. OR polished the interior though this wouldnt explain why it occurs when you use the A/C Try one of those there impressive A/C bombs that kill 99% of all know smelly germs

Just looked up the you tube video on this one the official fix is to hard wire the wires under the seat but there is also a yellow connector plug in the floor, disconnect your battery for half and hour and unplug this connector and spray the contacts with electrical contact cleaner then replug this should clear the light...... fingers crossed VW use yellow to denote airbag circuits

Have you cleared the codes? Sometimes you have to to shut off a light others lights will reset after being cycled 2 or 3 time (short drive)

Had this problem when I refitted a boost hose and put the seal in the wrong place it leaked went under boost and into limp home mode, check the hoses are tight and a very basic code reader should show basic codes. I have a small collection of code readers now very useful almost but not always tell you exactly whats wrong

You can buy resistors on ebay to disable test airbag circuits you just drain the power for and hour unplug the passenger airbag module and plug and tape the resister into the plug connections thus fooling the airbag circuit the bag is still in place.

New foxwell scanner reset airbag light phew

Put a new MAF sensor in and checked for codes......nothing checked live info and TP comes up as ZERO I am right in thinking TP is throttle position so how the heck is my Touran following the throttle?? OK GUYS BRAINS TO THE RESCUE PLEASE! Edit PS just phoned bro in law and he suggested pulling the plug and looking for a fault code, good idea, I'll do that AFTER I come back off holiday!

Fuel consumption is rubbish on my 1.9tdi Touran so I thought its slow to warm up lets change the thermostat, its not easy to get to the 10mm bolts holding the thermostat housing in place so I first removed the hose, lucky I have hose clamps for that job then found the top bolt is tricky the bottom one is very tricky, I'll say no more there I loosened the turbo hoses on the right side of the engine, on reassembly I test drove it and there was no power because the rubber hose seal had slid up its fitting so you couldnt get the clip on, I did get two codes One was the MAF sensor was outside its normal setting the plug needed pulling off and reseating there and the engine was under boosting, quelle suprise!! Im wondering how much you can adjust the boost before it overboosts?? Anyone had a twiddle with theirs?? My Old Peugeot 306 was tweaked slightly from 11 to 18lbs of boost and a very slight tweak to the fueling, iy actually IMPROVED the fuel consumption and gave 45mpg instead of 42mpg.

I am buying a new scanner which may or may not untrip the warning light watch this space

And pulled the fuse on the SRS system which has now lit the Airbag Light, as I have just changed the switchgear/clockspring on my FIAT Panda and need to switch off that light I have purchased a FOXWELL NT630 PRO which apparently can do both, I have an Autel 319 ,a Maxicheck Pro and a FOXWELL NT 301 I thought here we go again, the KIA Caren is going to Hendy KIA on the 1st Oct for a diagnostic, IF and that is a big IF they get it running I will keep the KIA anyone interested in a Touran brand new Fuel pump I paid £2050 for it and have fitted new front discs and EBC Optimax pads..................still lets wait for the result from Hendys. PS edited for this I purchased the FIAT with the airbag light lit and no horn the horn now works so Im hoping the airbag light will be a quicky reset.

Sadly as my fuel pump packed up at brackley I had to have my van towed to the site and got dumped right alongside the fair Agghhh! Cost £246 for a VW pump to be installed (thanks Johns garage dropped in there at 5.30pm fixed by 2pm following day)

I use a whopping great 40litre Halfords 12/230v box or a little 4 can woolworth's job

Or ask down your local scrappy take many measurements and photos with you, you might get lucky

Son in Law (now ex thank god) drove a Rover 45 diesel through deep water I manged to get him running but following him home I could smell unburnt diesel, stripped the head and whoopy doo the Number one cylinder was 3 mm shy of TDC, removing the Conrod I found it twisted and bent around 3 planes front sideways and twisted, bought a second hand piston and conrod, used the original piston and it was fixed, Rover 45s suck air via the N/S wheel arch and low down, dipstick tried to rush through the flooded section of road too quick, Daughters 206 did something similar but didnt wreck the engine just wouldn't tick over............the air filter was rather soggy I drilled an 1/8th hole in the bottom of the intake trunking to drain further suck ups.

Spectator only, tip for older persons there is a fairground by the entrance to the drag strip, especially if you are tent camping PARK AS FAR AWAY AS POSSIBLE, ITS RUDDY NOISY. Edited add on I swopped the Main Pulley and popped on a new auxillary belt all pulleys fine shifted the rood tent nearer the front, (centred over rear O/S door) and the drone diminished, air passing between the tent base and car roof causing a thrumming sound!! Checked the Engine mounts all sound no splits observed, will be cleaning the MAF as fuel consumption 38mpg best and MAF can cause a slightly uneven tickover, mine has such a tickover.

PS I only fit approved Towbars, Anker are the cheapest for flange type and for removable swan fitting there is a good Italian make which also sells spares, forgotten the name I will dig out some paper work. Anker also very nicely provided information (all bars are specific to the car they fit) on how to remove the Rear Bumper on the Touran, information sadly missing on the scandal that is modern Hayne manuals, I know I had to remove the bumper what I needed to know was HOW! In the Tourans case you remove the steel crash bar from under the bumper and the Main Towbar frame fits in its place, with a couple of heavy steel strips bolted inside the crumple zone tubes, again the best advice is loosely assemble then tighten up and torque to the given settings, I wire brush any rust I find and give a coat of alu-zinc paint to stabalise the surfaces, as most bars are given a primer coat I give them some alu-zinc for good measure, bolt heads the same.

European Finals much diminished as Europe lost a lot of events, if I hadnt had DPF on the brain I might have thought of giving the tank a good thump, ironically Eric O of South Main Auto on a you tube posting last night had a Ford F350 with the same problem, he also showed a good way to diagnose a failing pump by forming a fused loop from the fuse box and a current clamp which showed the drop in current draw as the commuter spun over i the pump he used a scope to show the current draw which dropped to zero every time it hit the dud commuter, this is do-able at home, the Brackley garage that fixed my car noted the pump wasnt running and opened up the fuel filter which was empty!!