Volkswagen Owners Club

Looks amazing original condition - what a great car from a really good era for car manufacturing. Make sure you check under the passenger floor area for any water ingress into the ECU that is in there

Hi Gary and welcome to the Club Unfortunately, we haven't as yet organised events for the club as it is more of an online rather than physically based club. However, if you wish to start up a local VW Owners Club gathering or event then feel free and we can help you promote it. Good to have you onboard

Well thats certainly an odd one! I do wonder if the brake servo is a new generation of electronic braking assistance and these tests wouldn't necessarily apply. Another possible cause could be a brake hose collapsing internally, although very rare but does give similar issues. It is okay for the pads to catch assuming the brakes work fine until everything beds in nicely (circa 100 miles to be on the safe side) As long as the braking efficiency is there then it should be fine to drive. A quick test to see if any of the brakes are dragging is to get a digital infared temperature gun and measure each disc after a good run of hard braking, etc. Another way to accurately determine the efficiency of the brakes and if any of them are binding is to put it on an MOT Brake Test rollers and see if the needle or digital reading picks up any drag or deficiency on any of the wheels Let us know how you get on with the garage

Generally, I tend to encounter such issues and squealing or grinding brakes and can attribute it to poorly fitted pads, incorrect or missing shims and more importantly, lack of compound between the pads and caliper carrier bracket. By not applying a compound such as copperslip (which is not so necessary on stainless shims) you would have a corrosion factor with dissimilar metals. You have done everything exactly as it should be done (and believe me, most of the issues I have encountered with dragging and squealing brakes are when those who fit the brakes do not do this). Also, a lot of pads (if supplied from a dubious source of origin) may sometimes be slightly larger due to excess paint on the pads, which sometimes needs scraping back to fit correctly and this leads to the pads 'grabbing' and not retracting once applied. Outside of the pads and calipers, issues such as a faulty brake servo, ABS and other related hydraulic issues it may be worth checking all wheels spin freely when jacked up and see if you can isolate the faulty component. Also, check the brake hoses are okay and not damaged in any way Let us know how you get on with it

perhaps try some adhesive on both the parts before putting back on ? It may work but nothing lost otherwise I guess

I personally would put in a google search for Webasto roof and see what comes up but any of those search terms should also produce result

wow! that's going back some years! Haven't seen one of those for many years. It was a roll back roof made a company called Webasto - not sure you'll be able to acquire one unless it is from a scrap car but doubt the condition after all these years would make it useable and water-tight

I would think that a simple 'remap' of the Engine ECU would sort it out but shouldn't be doing that on a new car so I would throw it back at VW and says its dangerous and see what they offer

I believe the water pump is externally mounted from the timing chain assembly (but please do check) in which case it shouldn't need routine replacement as it would do if it was belt driven

I would take it back to address the issue with them - if they were willing to acknowledge the fault and replace components then the liability is with them However it could just be a case of reprogramming the vehicle electronic systems to resolve this issue?

It would be best to go to your local dealership parts department and see what they list to fit your car

Is there a side panel at the end of the dash that can be removed? It may only be able to be removed from the rear, behind the dash - maybe able to view it better if the glovebox / lower dash is removed

Make sure the immobiliser chip hasn't fallen out when changing the battery - had that happen to me before

That's great to know - thanks for the feedback and glad it was something simple

The first place I would start is the battery condition and security of connections, etc It is possible it could be reading the wrong voltage if it needs to be programmed in