Volkswagen Owners Club
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Posts posted by Volkswagen Owners Club
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Have you got a photo of this warning lamp?
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Hi...welcome to the Club
I would definitely check that the system is working as it should do as if there are problems with the AdBlue then it can be very costly.
Also, ensure that you never run that low on the fluid as it has a limited range / time before it shuts the engine down and dealer only reset which can leave you stranded on the road side.
I would start by reading any owners manuals you received with the car to familiarise yourself with the operation of this system. -
Hi....welcome to the Club
Wow! haven't seen one of those in years, superb looking car and definitely one to have back then, and now
Good to have you onboard!
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Here's a lead for repairing the panel....seems common fault with these
https://cartronix.co.uk/product/vw-touran-instrument-cluster-dash-repair/
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Oh crikey! that's unfortunate and sounds like someone with a grudge.
I would be reluctant to change the glass for it to happen againHowever, you could try Autoglass and companies like that as they may have some in their old stock....try phoning a few or popping in just on the offchance they may have what you're looking for
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If it is located in the footwell area, under the passenger floor or under the dash, as some older VW models used to locate the BCU and it could be water ingress that has caused the issue.
Sometimes things start working again once the interior has dried out -
Hi...welcome to the Club
It depends on what has occurred with the engine...did the cambelt break?
It may be worth repairing depending on mileage but sometimes, better to just let it go and start again
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I would definitely have this checked out at a garage as it sounds like there is a worn joint, loose wheel, hub bearing and just about anything that could be a dangerous fault.
Least case scenario is an unbalanced wheel but usually around 60mph and goes when you reach 70mph -
Welcome to the Club
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Fine looking VW - looks at home at the trackside
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Hi Dan...welcome to the Club
How you finding the Tiguan so far?
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Hi Mazzy....welcome to the club
It certainly sounds like a build up of carbon in both the EGR and Turbo which could cause these issues.
First thought would be to treat the engine to a carbon clean such as Terraclean which would remove the build up and allow the engine to breath properly - both in and outTurbo variable vanes can gum up and stop moving which will cause an underboost issue as would carbon buildup elsewhere in the intake causing the engine to block up and restrict the flow of boost to where it should be which can cause further damage if untreated
Let us know how you get on with it
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Hi Dazzer, good to see you back again
Just wondering what equipment you have used to read the fault codes and whether it has the function to recode injectors
As is common with Fords, the injectors go out of synch over time (usually 80k miles) and if you have the facility to recode them to recalibrate the injection rate which balances all of the injectors to the same rate....it seems like the issue is spreading across the engine hence my thought here?
Alternatively, what is the coolant sensor reading (linear from cold to hot without any glitches?) May not necessarily bring up a code but can affect the injection rate as the engine warms up
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Hi....welcome to the Forum
Firstly, the corrosion sounds like the tester being vigilant and listing these areas of corrosion as it is relevant and can therefore be checked the year after to see if it has worsened.
Mostly, something like Lanolin based rust inhibitor could be sprayed into and onto the areas to ensure it doesn't get any worse.
The service parts are a must and cannot be delayed if you wish to get to 200k miles.
If you are not sure if something has been replaced then always best to replace it anywayGood luck with it all and let us know how you get on with it all
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Quite a few available from EuroCarParts - they're all quite good really
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Could be immobiliser, starter motor, crankshaft sensor or so many other potential causes.
It really does need specialist diagnosis rather than some of the guesswork that has been carried out so far.
Granted you have to start somewhere but after considerable expense and still not sorting the issue I can imagine you are rather disappointed.
I would try to work out when the issue occurs: hot, cold, wet, dry, near a mast (it does happen with EMF swamping ECU's), clutch not depressed enough - just simple checks to eliminate the obvious -
That sounds like a safety issue and one which then manufacturers / dealers should address if it affects engine power or cutting out
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You could see if the cracking is only superficial or deep and may benefit from rubbing back with fine 1200 grit wet and dry to see if this removes it and then use T-Cut to bring to a high polish
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There is quite a bit of information on the relay here
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There must be some specialist companies out there with parts being remade but otherwise try eBay for secondhand parts
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There is no fuse for the sensor
Sometimes if there is an issue with the MAF and you unplug and it runs better (default running setting) then it proves the MAF is faulty.
If it made no difference when it was unplugged then chances are its fineDo a scan of the ECU fault code memory to see what codes are stored in there (if any)
Beyond that then proper diagnosis of the engine is required -
I know this happens on the Seat Leon which shares the same mechanicals as the VW
The issue may be the plastic guide on the pedal has a ratchet that self-adjusts the cable and it fails
Usually you can lift the pedal with your foot underneath and it works for a while until it goes again -
Sounds like the motor is failing but also check the resistor pack to see if there is corrosion on the terminals
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Sounds like an air leak could be causing these issues, check the intake and exhaust for leaks first
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Vw Passat 2011 2 ltr tdi Bluemotion abs sensor
in Volkswagen Passat Club
Posted
Are the same amount of wires on both sensors?
Can you measure the resistance of both sensors to see if they are the same (or at least quite similar resistance (Ohms) ?
Also ensure that the reluctor ring has the same amount of teeth / slots as the original one