Volkswagen Owners Club

It would be more advisable to let the dealer update it as not sure if you have to do them in succession but hopefully it won't cost too much. Let us know how it goes

Yes the above brands are fine, especially Yuasa

As the engine is small capacity and the demands on the Stop/Start are relatively low then an EFB battery should be fine - just ensure you don't compromise on the brand and as a rule a cheap battery is lightweight and a more expensive battery of the same specifications is heavier - I would go for the best quality one for your money

Hi @Mikey Good to have you onboard ! As far as I can determine if the replacement wheel suits the car and the Airbag is correct for the vehicle and wheel then it should be a straightforward swap. Disconnect the battery negative terminal and leave for at least 30 minutes. Remove the air bag and store with the pad facing upwards on the floor out of the way. Use a breaker bar or similar to loosen the centre nut but leave the nut on by a few threads - use you palms to whack the underside of the wheel and it should come loose - now you still have your front teeth as the nut will hold it back from the steering wheel smacking you in the face (trust me I only ever did it the once). Disconnect all wiring and be careful with the SRS Rotary Coupling that it does not move from its position or gets damaged - also do not turn the steering wheel from the position it was removed from. Prior to removing I should have said that it is an idea to use Tippex to mark the original position of the wheel on the steering column shaft so it goes on in exactly the same place

bit of luck more like :-)

Thats a positive outcome for you then - not so much for the car :-(

Hopefully someone on here VCDS can help you out with this

Have you got a photo of the radio and switch so we can see the clearance, etc

Hi .... welcome to the Club The older Passat was a great car although it did have its issues (namely the ECU under the passenger footwell that used to flood with water and a few other issues). The modern Passat seems miles away from its predecessor and hopefully you won't need to wield a spanner in anger during your ownership. Good to have you onboard!

Not entirely sure but it seems to be temperature related - if the climate control is switched on then this may have a bearing on why it alters settings once warmed up

It does sound like the park position is not being recognised by the motor. First thing to check is the wiring going into the tailgate from the back of the roof which sometimes breaks where the wires bend with the opening and closing of the boot. Pull back any rubbers to see if there are any broken wires.

Ah that would make sense! Thank you for sharing the feedback and sure someone will come across this problem (and solution) in the future. Glad you got it sorted - nice simple and cheap fix !

Automatic transmissions do have a 'take up' within the drivetrain but equally it could be low on fluid or require a fluid and filter change. I would recommend to take to an automatic transmission specialists (may be difficult to find and may not be local) but definitely worth getting them to check it out before it potentially gets any worse

Maybe possibly the battery - had the same issue on a Golf and just not enough current to turn the engine over and power the electronics - once started was fine Also, check the crankshaft sensor and replace if necessary

I would open the tailgate and pull back the rubber gaiter that houses the wiring from the vehicle to the tailgate. If the wiring is broken then that is your issue - simple repair to the wiring, refit the gaiter and job done

not sure if it is turbocharged but if so then it is more than likely a hole or split in the pressure side of the turbo or intercooler

There is a Memory Saver available to connect to a slave battery and into the cigar lighter socket or the OBD port It will keep everything in memory once you disconnect the vehicle battery

Looks amazing original condition - what a great car from a really good era for car manufacturing. Make sure you check under the passenger floor area for any water ingress into the ECU that is in there

Hi Gary and welcome to the Club Unfortunately, we haven't as yet organised events for the club as it is more of an online rather than physically based club. However, if you wish to start up a local VW Owners Club gathering or event then feel free and we can help you promote it. Good to have you onboard

Well thats certainly an odd one! I do wonder if the brake servo is a new generation of electronic braking assistance and these tests wouldn't necessarily apply. Another possible cause could be a brake hose collapsing internally, although very rare but does give similar issues. It is okay for the pads to catch assuming the brakes work fine until everything beds in nicely (circa 100 miles to be on the safe side) As long as the braking efficiency is there then it should be fine to drive. A quick test to see if any of the brakes are dragging is to get a digital infared temperature gun and measure each disc after a good run of hard braking, etc. Another way to accurately determine the efficiency of the brakes and if any of them are binding is to put it on an MOT Brake Test rollers and see if the needle or digital reading picks up any drag or deficiency on any of the wheels Let us know how you get on with the garage

Generally, I tend to encounter such issues and squealing or grinding brakes and can attribute it to poorly fitted pads, incorrect or missing shims and more importantly, lack of compound between the pads and caliper carrier bracket. By not applying a compound such as copperslip (which is not so necessary on stainless shims) you would have a corrosion factor with dissimilar metals. You have done everything exactly as it should be done (and believe me, most of the issues I have encountered with dragging and squealing brakes are when those who fit the brakes do not do this). Also, a lot of pads (if supplied from a dubious source of origin) may sometimes be slightly larger due to excess paint on the pads, which sometimes needs scraping back to fit correctly and this leads to the pads 'grabbing' and not retracting once applied. Outside of the pads and calipers, issues such as a faulty brake servo, ABS and other related hydraulic issues it may be worth checking all wheels spin freely when jacked up and see if you can isolate the faulty component. Also, check the brake hoses are okay and not damaged in any way Let us know how you get on with it

perhaps try some adhesive on both the parts before putting back on ? It may work but nothing lost otherwise I guess

I personally would put in a google search for Webasto roof and see what comes up but any of those search terms should also produce result

wow! that's going back some years! Haven't seen one of those for many years. It was a roll back roof made a company called Webasto - not sure you'll be able to acquire one unless it is from a scrap car but doubt the condition after all these years would make it useable and water-tight

I would think that a simple 'remap' of the Engine ECU would sort it out but shouldn't be doing that on a new car so I would throw it back at VW and says its dangerous and see what they offer