Volkswagen Owners Club

There is no fuse for the sensor Sometimes if there is an issue with the MAF and you unplug and it runs better (default running setting) then it proves the MAF is faulty. If it made no difference when it was unplugged then chances are its fine Do a scan of the ECU fault code memory to see what codes are stored in there (if any) Beyond that then proper diagnosis of the engine is required

I know this happens on the Seat Leon which shares the same mechanicals as the VW The issue may be the plastic guide on the pedal has a ratchet that self-adjusts the cable and it fails Usually you can lift the pedal with your foot underneath and it works for a while until it goes again

Sounds like the motor is failing but also check the resistor pack to see if there is corrosion on the terminals

Sounds like an air leak could be causing these issues, check the intake and exhaust for leaks first

Sounds like something has detached from the force of lurching forwards.....check the battery terminals and leads to see they are intact

I would clarify this with the dealer in writing as a number of new vehicles off the line are being delivered with less electronic options than originally agreed owing to the semi-conductor shortages. Typical example is the keyless entry fobs being reduced from the standard two to just one when you collect it

The first thing to do is check the battery voltage when the light comes on e.g. is it overcharging (above 14.5 volts maximum) when it goes above 2000 rpm If so, then maybe the wrong alternator If not then check all earths to the engine are in place and not disconnected or broken. Otherwise last thing would be to check the over-running pulley is working okay (eg. only rotating one way and locking the other direction. If not then replace it with a new one

Engine or gearbox mounts and stabilisers? Driveshaft joints? Subframe mounts?

I would stick to the genuine oils recommended by the manaufacturer Any VW dealership should be able to provide the oil but probably wont be cheap though

Battery condition? Maybe reset the electrical system by disconnecting the battery (negative terminal) for about 15 mins then reconnect and see if it resets Make sure you have radio code beforehand

Hi Dave.....welcome to the Club! Long line of VW's over the years then Good to have you onboard!

If in doubt, get it changed, its sometimes only delaying the inevitable replacement and puts your mind at ease

I wonder if the flywheel/flexplate or crank sensor toothed wheel may have the incorrect number of teeth which can happen with engine changes Alternatively, maybe worth having the standard Map loaded onto the ECU to eliminate that as a potential source of the issue?

I believe you should try to sell it as a Spare or Repairs car as they are getting more sought after now the Mk4 is becoming rarer to find Feel free to post up more specs and pics if you want?

Oh goodness that is a mixed bunch of faults As you say, my first thoughts were wiring issues. I would start at the battery terminals and leads including the all important earth leads and connections and go from there. If you can get it running then do a 'wiggle test' which is wiggling any wires and connections to invoke the fault and bingo there is your problem area Let us know what you find

There are a few options if no one can help on here If you type in the search term Volkswagen SVM and see what comes up that may be of use to you

Nice mods and you certainly know what look you're after which is great

Have you a photo of the bottle and usually has a symbol on the lid to signify the fluid Also, what year and engine is the Sharan?

I would be tempted to read any fault codes to find the exact cause of the error and resulting light showing It could be non-related and worth checking to see if it is a coding issue which may be possible to code into the vehicle using the correct equipment

Hi....welcome to the Club Looks the business.....what other 'bits and bobs' have you got on it?

Yes,there are some aftermarket audio head units that can replace the standard one but you'll need a fitting kit with a fascia plate and wiring adapters as well Try iceboxautos for aftermarket plug and play units

Hi You are correct that the headlights need to deflect to the other side of the road However, you do not state the age of your Passat but if it is new enough to have HID or adaptive headlamps then these do not need adjusting as the beam does not kick up to the kerbside Otherwise, if you are in doubt then line the front of the car up against a wall at night and see if there is a kick-up in the beam to the nearside and if so you could put black insulation tape on the headlights by covering the kick-up and look at the results as you do it to get an idea of correct position I go to France every year for the Le Mans 24 Hours race week and the French police are really hot on British cars so they can increase their revenue for a week. Generally, we don't tend to drive at night and so it's not so important about the correct positioning of the black tape. However, it fools the police that you have black tape on the headlights (due diligence and all that) but they would have no way of measuring and accurately aligning the lights at the roadside 🙂 Enjoy your road trip

Could be the turbo variable vanes sticking with carbon if the car is only used locally? Turbo cleaning products are available and can easily solve the issue

Thanks for the detailed write up Tony and also great to hear you have fixed the issue successfully! Not sure about the MPG, maybe it will improve over time once the engine settles down after the issue ?

Probably cheaper to go for a complete set of lowered springs (of a reputable make) from eBay