Volkswagen Owners Club

not sure but would be good to try one and see if it works...let us know how you get on

sounds like the immobiliser aerial by the ignition lock is not reading the key properly. I would take the car to a VW specialist for them to scan it and recode the key if necessary

Hi....welcome to the Club Glad to hear the work was done under warranty and it useful to keep the cover running for as long as possible on some vehicles. Good to have you onboard!

more than likely an ABS sensor on the wheels, which one is another ballgame as you'll need to scan the ABS system to determine which one has failed

I would definitely check the control unit under the passenger floor as this is usually affected by water ingress and also takes out the wiring which will need replacing

Hi .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard

I would be tempted to smear some sealant but not silicon as this can be drawn into the intake (used to use Red Hermatite) Not sure of the adjusting screw....can you upload a photo of it and the location in the pipe

Usually with Japanese import vehicles, they go through an auction house and are issued with a very comprehensive report on condition. This should be available to view from the dealer before you commit to purchase. As far as I am aware the mileages are low as generally the roads are not vast and unable to achieve high speeds and distances.

It may be worth taking into a garage for a scan to see if the system is working correctly. Far better investigating it if the system is not counting down until it shuts down. Sometimes the fluid crystalises and this may be a reason for the sensor not reading the correct level

If it is a parking sensor then they make a clicking noise (very feint) and if one isn't clicking then it is faulty, remove and replace from the bumper if you can access it

Are the same amount of wires on both sensors? Can you measure the resistance of both sensors to see if they are the same (or at least quite similar resistance (Ohms) ? Also ensure that the reluctor ring has the same amount of teeth / slots as the original one

Have you got a photo of this warning lamp?

Hi...welcome to the Club I would definitely check that the system is working as it should do as if there are problems with the AdBlue then it can be very costly. Also, ensure that you never run that low on the fluid as it has a limited range / time before it shuts the engine down and dealer only reset which can leave you stranded on the road side. I would start by reading any owners manuals you received with the car to familiarise yourself with the operation of this system.

Hi....welcome to the Club Wow! haven't seen one of those in years, superb looking car and definitely one to have back then, and now Good to have you onboard!

Here's a lead for repairing the panel....seems common fault with these https://cartronix.co.uk/product/vw-touran-instrument-cluster-dash-repair/

Oh crikey! that's unfortunate and sounds like someone with a grudge. I would be reluctant to change the glass for it to happen again However, you could try Autoglass and companies like that as they may have some in their old stock....try phoning a few or popping in just on the offchance they may have what you're looking for

If it is located in the footwell area, under the passenger floor or under the dash, as some older VW models used to locate the BCU and it could be water ingress that has caused the issue. Sometimes things start working again once the interior has dried out

Hi...welcome to the Club It depends on what has occurred with the engine...did the cambelt break? It may be worth repairing depending on mileage but sometimes, better to just let it go and start again

I would definitely have this checked out at a garage as it sounds like there is a worn joint, loose wheel, hub bearing and just about anything that could be a dangerous fault. Least case scenario is an unbalanced wheel but usually around 60mph and goes when you reach 70mph

Welcome to the Club

Fine looking VW - looks at home at the trackside

Hi Dan...welcome to the Club How you finding the Tiguan so far?

Hi Mazzy....welcome to the club It certainly sounds like a build up of carbon in both the EGR and Turbo which could cause these issues. First thought would be to treat the engine to a carbon clean such as Terraclean which would remove the build up and allow the engine to breath properly - both in and out Turbo variable vanes can gum up and stop moving which will cause an underboost issue as would carbon buildup elsewhere in the intake causing the engine to block up and restrict the flow of boost to where it should be which can cause further damage if untreated Let us know how you get on with it

Hi Dazzer, good to see you back again Just wondering what equipment you have used to read the fault codes and whether it has the function to recode injectors As is common with Fords, the injectors go out of synch over time (usually 80k miles) and if you have the facility to recode them to recalibrate the injection rate which balances all of the injectors to the same rate....it seems like the issue is spreading across the engine hence my thought here? Alternatively, what is the coolant sensor reading (linear from cold to hot without any glitches?) May not necessarily bring up a code but can affect the injection rate as the engine warms up

Hi....welcome to the Forum Firstly, the corrosion sounds like the tester being vigilant and listing these areas of corrosion as it is relevant and can therefore be checked the year after to see if it has worsened. Mostly, something like Lanolin based rust inhibitor could be sprayed into and onto the areas to ensure it doesn't get any worse. The service parts are a must and cannot be delayed if you wish to get to 200k miles. If you are not sure if something has been replaced then always best to replace it anyway Good luck with it all and let us know how you get on with it all