Volkswagen Owners Club

I would definitely have this checked out at a garage as it sounds like there is a worn joint, loose wheel, hub bearing and just about anything that could be a dangerous fault. Least case scenario is an unbalanced wheel but usually around 60mph and goes when you reach 70mph

Welcome to the Club

Fine looking VW - looks at home at the trackside

Hi Dan...welcome to the Club How you finding the Tiguan so far?

Hi Mazzy....welcome to the club It certainly sounds like a build up of carbon in both the EGR and Turbo which could cause these issues. First thought would be to treat the engine to a carbon clean such as Terraclean which would remove the build up and allow the engine to breath properly - both in and out Turbo variable vanes can gum up and stop moving which will cause an underboost issue as would carbon buildup elsewhere in the intake causing the engine to block up and restrict the flow of boost to where it should be which can cause further damage if untreated Let us know how you get on with it

Hi Dazzer, good to see you back again Just wondering what equipment you have used to read the fault codes and whether it has the function to recode injectors As is common with Fords, the injectors go out of synch over time (usually 80k miles) and if you have the facility to recode them to recalibrate the injection rate which balances all of the injectors to the same rate....it seems like the issue is spreading across the engine hence my thought here? Alternatively, what is the coolant sensor reading (linear from cold to hot without any glitches?) May not necessarily bring up a code but can affect the injection rate as the engine warms up

Hi....welcome to the Forum Firstly, the corrosion sounds like the tester being vigilant and listing these areas of corrosion as it is relevant and can therefore be checked the year after to see if it has worsened. Mostly, something like Lanolin based rust inhibitor could be sprayed into and onto the areas to ensure it doesn't get any worse. The service parts are a must and cannot be delayed if you wish to get to 200k miles. If you are not sure if something has been replaced then always best to replace it anyway Good luck with it all and let us know how you get on with it all

Quite a few available from EuroCarParts - they're all quite good really

Could be immobiliser, starter motor, crankshaft sensor or so many other potential causes. It really does need specialist diagnosis rather than some of the guesswork that has been carried out so far. Granted you have to start somewhere but after considerable expense and still not sorting the issue I can imagine you are rather disappointed. I would try to work out when the issue occurs: hot, cold, wet, dry, near a mast (it does happen with EMF swamping ECU's), clutch not depressed enough - just simple checks to eliminate the obvious

That sounds like a safety issue and one which then manufacturers / dealers should address if it affects engine power or cutting out

You could see if the cracking is only superficial or deep and may benefit from rubbing back with fine 1200 grit wet and dry to see if this removes it and then use T-Cut to bring to a high polish

There is quite a bit of information on the relay here https://www.google.com/search?q=relay+185+on+vw+sharan&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB830GB831&oq=relay+185+on+vw+sharan&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160l2j33i22i29i30l2.9768j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

There must be some specialist companies out there with parts being remade but otherwise try eBay for secondhand parts https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/bn_1838652?mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338906902&customid=&toolid=20012

There is no fuse for the sensor Sometimes if there is an issue with the MAF and you unplug and it runs better (default running setting) then it proves the MAF is faulty. If it made no difference when it was unplugged then chances are its fine Do a scan of the ECU fault code memory to see what codes are stored in there (if any) Beyond that then proper diagnosis of the engine is required

I know this happens on the Seat Leon which shares the same mechanicals as the VW The issue may be the plastic guide on the pedal has a ratchet that self-adjusts the cable and it fails Usually you can lift the pedal with your foot underneath and it works for a while until it goes again

Sounds like the motor is failing but also check the resistor pack to see if there is corrosion on the terminals

Sounds like an air leak could be causing these issues, check the intake and exhaust for leaks first

Sounds like something has detached from the force of lurching forwards.....check the battery terminals and leads to see they are intact

I would clarify this with the dealer in writing as a number of new vehicles off the line are being delivered with less electronic options than originally agreed owing to the semi-conductor shortages. Typical example is the keyless entry fobs being reduced from the standard two to just one when you collect it

The first thing to do is check the battery voltage when the light comes on e.g. is it overcharging (above 14.5 volts maximum) when it goes above 2000 rpm If so, then maybe the wrong alternator If not then check all earths to the engine are in place and not disconnected or broken. Otherwise last thing would be to check the over-running pulley is working okay (eg. only rotating one way and locking the other direction. If not then replace it with a new one

Engine or gearbox mounts and stabilisers? Driveshaft joints? Subframe mounts?

I would stick to the genuine oils recommended by the manaufacturer Any VW dealership should be able to provide the oil but probably wont be cheap though

Battery condition? Maybe reset the electrical system by disconnecting the battery (negative terminal) for about 15 mins then reconnect and see if it resets Make sure you have radio code beforehand

Hi Dave.....welcome to the Club! Long line of VW's over the years then Good to have you onboard!

If in doubt, get it changed, its sometimes only delaying the inevitable replacement and puts your mind at ease