Volkswagen Owners Club

Hi....welcome to the Club I would examine the vehicles' service history and see that it has been carried out correctly and on time. Certainly good oil is an investment for longer turbo life and allowing it to cool down for a while before switching the engine off. Otherwise, it is a chance you take that the previous owner has looked after it properly

Which model is this? electric?

Hi....welcome to the Club I would start by carrying out any essential servicing tasks (ones you can confidently carry out yourself) which enhance the reliability and drivability. After that then its your choice to improve comfort whether thats the suspension or interior? Let us know how it all goes

Not sure but I imagine your local dealer would be obliging enough to guide you in finding the default back to english at no cost

Sounds like it could be the plastic ratchet mechanism on the clutch pedal Have a look under the dash at the top of the clutch pedal and see if there is a white plastic part It should also make a ratcheting noise when you lift the pedal back up If it is this then it needs replacing but is a sod of a job to do unless you are very flexible

I think it may be better to use a scan tool to check the errors and reset the lights from there

Thanks for posting the solution that will be helpful to other members with this issue

Well I suppose if they work and have done for that amount of miles then they should be good to fit. Not sure if you have to code them in though?

Thats a tough one and I can only imagine the best way forward would be to replace the seat with something more suitable to you. Scrapyard would be my first port of call for a replacement seat

I would be tempted to pull off the trim in the boot area which may lead you to find the problem. Managed to resolve a similar issue on a Toyota recently and it turned out to be a plastic clip that had dropped into the latch mechanism

Engine mounts? Subframe mounts? Anti-Roll Bar Links? Any of the above can cause a similar noise

It would be advisable to scan the ECU to see what fault codes are stored in there. Could be anything from engine management to ABS related faults, maybe something simple though

It looks like the vacuum hose from the Brake Exhauster which is driven from the engine. It would be quite vital to get this sorted as soon as possible. Looks like there are some other hoses that have some chaffing wear on them as well

The window regulator is cheap to buy and relatively easy to fit if you have basic handtools List of parts on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=volkswagen+golf+mk7+drivers+side+window+regulator&_sacat=131090

I believe it is the turbo variable vanes which are stuck in place with carbon and needs cleaning. Here is a link to a cleaning kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323958600044?hash=item4b6d6ff16c:g:basAAMXQfvlSg4~P

not sure but not worth taking the chance it could well be the auxiliary drivebelt pulley but it sounded more metallic rather than a dry belt noise

That doesn't sound good and i would take it back to the garage who changed the cambelt to check it out. Quite common for bolts to shear but this is not from overtightening just poor quality bolts used by VW

may have to ship in from abroad but costs are sometimes cheaper but take into account duties and carriage though

larger diameter wheels and lower profiles would give the car the stance and improved handling without compromising the suspension ride height too much

Would ask your local dealer for their estimated timeframe....could be some time with the current world situation and semiconductor issues

not sure it will but worth trying some parts up to your car to compare if you find someone that has some for sale and doesn't mind you doing this

A VAG specialist garage may be able to programme in the firmware to make this function operational

Hi, welcome to the Club The cambelt will need changing on both mileage and time so it will now be six years old so I would programme it in to be changed soon

Hi....welcome to the Club! It will probably need the refill programming in if the content ran low. A local garage with a scanner should be able to do this at low cost

Does it cut out when you start to drive? Installation looks fine, except for there looks like another dimple a few degrees to the left of the top mark which may be BTDC rather than TDC mark?