Volkswagen Owners Club

Hi....welcome to the Forum Very unfortunate, although not uncommon nowadays with the state of the roads as they are. It may well be the sensors being read by the system which should settle down over time. Alternatively, you can get it set by using VCDS or similar equipment. Let us know how you get on with it Good to have you onboard. Cheers, Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum Common problem with the plastic automatic pedal adjustment ratchet and pawl. Replacement ones are cheap but be prepared to spend some time under the dash

NealG how is the car now? It could be the battery voltage and just a case of replacing the battery to resolve it

Hi Kris....welcome to the Forum. Great looking Golf and particularly like the colour choice. I would fit a good quality aftermarket kit myself and save loads of money, but just be careful not to void any warranty

Hi....welcome to the Forum Feel free to post up some pics of the T5 us you want......always nice to see the different campervan conversions.

Hi....welcome to the Forum The issue with turbo performance dropping out is more than likely the variable vanes gummed up in the turbo which then leads to going into limp home mode and loss of boost which you describe. The issue with what seems to be a DPF is unlikely as it would not have been fitted with one in 2005. However, the EGR could be blocked which could also lead to these symptoms. In summary, it sounds like you have bought a car that has been driven around town and short-shifted through the gears (e.g. 30mph in 3rd or 4th gear) which has led to the build up of carbon in the engine and intake system. I would advise something along the lines of a Terraclean treatment to clean the engine and from there on drive it hard through the gears (as often as possible) to purge the carbon from the engine. If it is being driven around town a lot then best to drive in a low gear at all times (e.g. 30mph = 2nd gear). This will then keep the engine clean and return good performance and economy. Other jobs such as door lock and starter motor are straight forward jobs and shouldn't cost much to rectify. Let us know how you get on with it all

Hi....welcome to the Forum 100% most definitely the variable vanes sticking in the turbo. You can either try cleaning it with a Turbo Cleaner solution https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-MaxedDiesel-Turbo-Clean-Kit-Removing-Carbon-Deposits-Improving-Performance/401762692999?epid=1943810068&hash=item5d8aec2f87:g:ZfkAAOSw0IBc0Lc5 The alternative to replace the turbo cartridge which is a lot cheaper than replacing the whole turbocharger unit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=vw+golf+mk5+tdi+turbo+cartridge&_sop=15 Let us know what you find

Hi....welcome to the Forum I would advise looking at the Boot switch/solenoid and replace if necessary. This will probably sort the issue you have. Good to have you onboard and feel free to ask any other questions as you go along.

There are a few bulbs listed here https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=vw+golf+gti+mk6+led+bulbs&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=vw+golf+gti+mk6+led+headlamp+bulbs&_sacat=0

Hi Paula....welcome to the Forum Personally, I believe it will be cheaper to buy a good used van and convert it to a campervan rather than buy one already done. There are plenty of conversions that you can buy from ebay and simply bolt it in to start the conversion. Albeit, you'll have to pay professional trades to put in the gas, electrics, pop top, etc but even with these costs it would still allow a profit in the van if you decided to sell it after a while. Let us know how you decide to go forwards with this idea. Cheers, Trevor

Toothpaste works surprisingly well...and cheap!

Sounds like it is the intercooler hose popped off, better than splitting I suppose and should only need a new clip. I would also check the boost pressure is not too high due to a seized wastegate valve or defective solenoid

What are the symptoms with the vehicle ?

P0810 Clutch Position Control Error Indicator The PCM has detected a fault in the clutch position sensor circuit. The clutch position sensor circuit is sometimes called the clutch start switch because it must be closed for the starter to engage. This code applies only to vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. If this code is exhibited in a vehicle with an automatic transmission, suspect a defective PCM or programming error. Code Set Parameters If the PCM detects an abnormal voltage or resistance reading from the clutch position sensor circuit, a code will be stored and a malfunction indicator lamp may be illuminated. Some vehicles will require multiple failure cycle in order for a service engine soon lamp to be illuminated and some models will not illuminate a service engine soon lamp at all. Symptoms Symptoms may range from non-existent or could include failure of the engine to start, the engine may start without the clutch depressed, a stored code, and an illuminated service engine soon lamp. Common Causes The most common causes of this type of malfunction code being stored are due to a defective or misadjusted clutch position sensor. Other possible causes include shorted, open, or corroded wiring and/or electrical connectors. Common Misdiagnosis Technicians report that the starter/solenoid is frequently condemned in error when the clutch position sensor is at fault. Diagnosis A scanner (or code reader) and a digital volt/ohmmeter will be helpful in successfully diagnosing the potential causes of this code. In most modern OBD-II applications the clutch position sensor (also called the clutch start switch) is used to close the circuit between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid assembly While the clutch position sensor (or clutch interrupter) switch may vary by design from one manufacturer to another, it is usually of the “on/off” contact variety and is stationary mounted near the clutch foot pedal on the support bracket Some models place the switch directly on the pedal lever and use the pivot point as a fulcrum to move the contacts and open/close the circuit Regardless of design, constant voltage is typically present on one side of the switch and when the contacts in the switch are closed, voltage is transferred across the contacts and out of the switch to the starter or starter relay Begin your diagnosis with a visual inspection of all wiring and connectors Repair or replace damaged, disconnected, shorted, or corroded wiring, connectors, and components as necessary Always retest the system after repairs are completed to ensure success. If all system wiring, connectors, and components (Including fuses) appear to be in normal working order, connect the scanner (or code reader) to the diagnostic connector and record all stored codes and freeze frame data This information can be extremely helpful in diagnosing intermittent conditions that may have contributed to this code being stored After the codes are cleared, operate the vehicle to see if the code returns If the code fails to immediately return, you may have an intermittent condition Intermittent conditions can prove to be quite a challenge to diagnose and in extreme cases may have to be allowed to worsen before a correct diagnosis can be made If the code immediately returns, check for battery voltage on the input side of the clutch position sensor using the digital volt/ohmmeter If there is no voltage present on the input side of the switch, disconnect any related control modules and check for continuity between the system fuse and the input circuit at the clutch position sensor Repair open or shorted circuits as required If voltage is present on the input side of the clutch position sensor, depress the clutch pedal and check for voltage on the output side of the clutch position sensor If you have voltage on the input side and none on the output side (when the clutch pedal is depressed) suspect a faulty or misadjusted clutch position sensor Adjust or replace the switch as needed and retest the system afterward to ensure a successful repair. If there is voltage present on the output circuit of the clutch position sensor, check circuit continuity and resistance between the switch and the PCM Take care to disconnect all related control modules before testing Again, refer to the vehicle wiring diagram to ensure that all circuits are tested Repair or replace system open or shorted circuits/connectors as required If all circuits coincide with manufacturer’s specifications, suspect a defective PCM Remember that PCM failure is rare and replacement will require reprogramming

It could be many things but certainly sounds quite drastic so I would take it to a garage immediately before the situation worsens Let us know what was found to be the problem

Air suspension is more than likely what is already on the van when it was converted and it would have been lowered by releasing the air from the air-bags and then reinflating to raise the vehicle. One of two things has more than likely happened, 1- one of the air bags has a leak or 2- the system needs inflating either manually or if the pump is no longer working then replacing the pump. Alternatively, you could fit a retro-fit system that is available on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sop=12&_sacat=174088&_nkw=universal air suspension kit

Hi....welcome to the Forum If it is an old battery then chances are it has failed. Worth getting the charge rate tested to see if the alternator is working ok and if so then replace the battery and that should resolve the issue. Cheers, Trevor

Hi....welcome to the forums Nice car, the 1.8 GTi Turbo should provide enough excitement for most journeys I would imagine Good to have you onboard

It's certainly worth pulling it apart as long as it comes apart easily as opposed to wrecking it in the process. You never know what you may find and it could be an easy fix

I believe this is a common fault with this system .... other forum posts suggest either an update or internal fault Let us know what you find

You should be able to buy a complete set of door and steering locks, ECU and any other components needed to just plug and play...done it on a Honda and Renault before. Not sure of cost on eBay or whether it is cheaper to buy the correctly programmed key, sorry

Oh dear! that seems quite catastrophic. I would imagine that there is a fault in the electrical wiring that is shorting to earth. This would be the reason the fuse has blown and why the battery is discharging rapidly. I would take the car to an auto-electrician to diagnose the cause before any serious damage to the electrical system occurs

not sure really....may be available for another country possibly

absolutely, should be plenty of power from the engine to tow with

Hi...welcome to the Forum In general, the diesel Sharan engine is a good one but not used in built up areas where it can clog up over time. The petrol engine therefore would be a better option for local driving