Volkswagen Owners Club

Sounds odd.....would start by cleaning the intake system and ensure that the throttle body area is clear of all carbon deposits as this may be affecting the idle speed. Alternatively, there may be a idle reset / adaption process that will stabilise the idle speed - of course this would have to be carried out using a scantool

It will need to be scanned to see what fault codes come up and go from there....

Hi....welcome to the Club Couldn't go wrong with the old Beetles and although the Golf has evolved to a lot more advancements it is still quite reliable. The old Mk5 is about as good as they come but do ensure it has had regular servicing and cambelt replacement and then you're halfway there Good to have you onboard!

I would test to see if it is a leak somewhere by blocking the exhaust with a rag being held over the tailpipe and listen for any hissing noises from the engine bay....a leaking gasket, split intercooler or hose/pipe, etc From there you can inspect the condition of the turbo spindle for wear and float and rebuild or replace as necessary

I would imagine there is one on the side and one it sits on along with a stabiliser mount on the rear (i think)

If the battery is definitely in good condition and charge is sufficient then I would look at immobiliser next It would help to get hold of a scan tool to see what codes are present and particularly any relating to the immobiliser Check the battery earth leads condition going to the chassis and engine/gearbox Let us know how you get on with it

I would start by examining the wiring from the sensor and particularly if it routes through the front end area Potential of damage to the wiring may cause the faults as its voltage related?

Hi....welcome to the Club Let us know how you get on with it when you pick it up Good to have you onboard!

Hi .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

I suppose the other way to do it is to use studding and nuts but the tensile strength may not be same as OE bolts Although saying that the standard OE bolts on VW are shocking quality so quite possibly a way forwards?

Try these guys! https://www.actronics.co.uk/instrument-clusters?page=1&manufacturers=2101&models=1977

not sure if this helps?

That's a shame you're getting trouble with it already but they are a bit renowned for their warning lamps. Most will be okay to drive with such as Amber coloured lamps which are advisory but worth checking out at some point before the fault becomes more expensive to fix (e.g. brake pads low, etc) It may be worth your while to obtain an OBD scan tool which you can interrogate the warning lamps and read the codes yourself, quite cheap to buy and can lead to a greater understanding of what is occurring within the car Maybe someone on here can recommend a good one to buy?

not sure but would be good to try one and see if it works...let us know how you get on

sounds like the immobiliser aerial by the ignition lock is not reading the key properly. I would take the car to a VW specialist for them to scan it and recode the key if necessary

Hi....welcome to the Club Glad to hear the work was done under warranty and it useful to keep the cover running for as long as possible on some vehicles. Good to have you onboard!

more than likely an ABS sensor on the wheels, which one is another ballgame as you'll need to scan the ABS system to determine which one has failed

I would definitely check the control unit under the passenger floor as this is usually affected by water ingress and also takes out the wiring which will need replacing

Hi .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard

I would be tempted to smear some sealant but not silicon as this can be drawn into the intake (used to use Red Hermatite) Not sure of the adjusting screw....can you upload a photo of it and the location in the pipe

Usually with Japanese import vehicles, they go through an auction house and are issued with a very comprehensive report on condition. This should be available to view from the dealer before you commit to purchase. As far as I am aware the mileages are low as generally the roads are not vast and unable to achieve high speeds and distances.

It may be worth taking into a garage for a scan to see if the system is working correctly. Far better investigating it if the system is not counting down until it shuts down. Sometimes the fluid crystalises and this may be a reason for the sensor not reading the correct level

If it is a parking sensor then they make a clicking noise (very feint) and if one isn't clicking then it is faulty, remove and replace from the bumper if you can access it

Are the same amount of wires on both sensors? Can you measure the resistance of both sensors to see if they are the same (or at least quite similar resistance (Ohms) ? Also ensure that the reluctor ring has the same amount of teeth / slots as the original one

Have you got a photo of this warning lamp?