Volkswagen Owners Club

Hi Neil I would be tempted to carry out cylinder compression or balance check to see if there is a mechanical fault present. Equally other mechanical faults such as vacuum leak could cause this fault

You would need to ask your local dealership on your options as they may be able to order a lockset for the car (on the original key or a replacement one)

Maybe try an external aerial Selection from ebay here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=tomtom+aerial&_sacat=131090

Does sound like the door latch mechanism is playing up, best to get it sorted before it doesn't unlock and then you won't be able to get the door open to replace it. I would try a scrapyard or ebay for a replacement (even if it is a used part, it may be better than you have already and good for the interim until you can source a new one

Sounds like a poor connection on the bulb contacts as it was working for a period and then not....would check the connections first and also could be a poor quality bulb?

I wonder if it could be the crankshaft sensor as when these fail it is usually when they get hot Try fitting a new one and see how you get on

Oh dear, nail polish remover is quite viscous stuff on plastic as you have found out I would be tempted to acquire a small amount of carbon fibre style (or just plain black or grey) vinyl from ebay and cut to shape to fit the panel

Not sure how they are connected to the audio system but would be interesting to refit the old unit to see if this cancels the errors?

Glad it worked out for you and aftermarket head units are so much better in many ways than the standard audio set up. Maybe it's popped a fuse when moving the wiring in the dash area?

sometimes they take a bit of effort to pull out but keep the removal keys in place

I know you mentioned that the car has been standing for some time in your previous post. Therefore, I would first look at wiring connections and the condition of cables leading to the transmission and control units

Hi....welcome to the Club Hope you can make a good one out of the two cars. Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club Hope you're successful in your search and feel free to share you find on here

Not sure how far away the exhaust is from the rubber driveshaft gaiter and whether it is affecting the rubber (scorching it, drying it out, etc) I would pop into the local VW dealership and ask them to look it up on their parts system - if they can't order it at least you'll know the part number

Hi....welcome to the Club Enjoy your Touareg and good to have you onboard!

Not sure but have heard about this sort of issue before and from memory it was a DSG fault. Maybe look in the www.audiownersclub.com and do a search for DSG shuddering or banging as seem to recall something on that forum

It definitely sounds like a release bearing which may be slightly contacting the clutch cover plate diaghragm. This can be caused by incorrect clearance (if it is manually adjustable) - this will need to be checked that the marginal gap is there. Sometimes it can be aggravated by the driver resting their foot on the clutch pedal and this takes up the clearance which means the bearing is spinning with the engine rotation which if anything more than idle can wear the bearing and create the noise. Once you depress the pedal then the bearing is under load and the noise disappears. Alternatively it could be a cheap clutch kit which includes the bearing.

Oh dear, does sound like a transmission issue and would need recovering to a garage to diagnose further. Get a quote before committing to any repairs as this could be expensive

I think DPF came in late 2007

Sounds odd.....would start by cleaning the intake system and ensure that the throttle body area is clear of all carbon deposits as this may be affecting the idle speed. Alternatively, there may be a idle reset / adaption process that will stabilise the idle speed - of course this would have to be carried out using a scantool

It will need to be scanned to see what fault codes come up and go from there....

Hi....welcome to the Club Couldn't go wrong with the old Beetles and although the Golf has evolved to a lot more advancements it is still quite reliable. The old Mk5 is about as good as they come but do ensure it has had regular servicing and cambelt replacement and then you're halfway there Good to have you onboard!

I would test to see if it is a leak somewhere by blocking the exhaust with a rag being held over the tailpipe and listen for any hissing noises from the engine bay....a leaking gasket, split intercooler or hose/pipe, etc From there you can inspect the condition of the turbo spindle for wear and float and rebuild or replace as necessary

I would imagine there is one on the side and one it sits on along with a stabiliser mount on the rear (i think)

If the battery is definitely in good condition and charge is sufficient then I would look at immobiliser next It would help to get hold of a scan tool to see what codes are present and particularly any relating to the immobiliser Check the battery earth leads condition going to the chassis and engine/gearbox Let us know how you get on with it