Volkswagen Owners Club

It could be a defective key and the other one was a replacement owing to this? It may be worth stripping down to see if there is any damage or debris within the key assembly It is a common fault on Renault/Nissan for the microswitches to completely detach from the circuit board and this may also be the case with yours?

Hi Antony76 What's your opinion of it so far? Good to have you onboard!

I believe the engine management light will stay on for a short period and if it disappears when the engine is started then it is not a current fault. You could get the system scanned for fault codes to ensure there is not an issue with the vehicle.

I think this is something you can discuss with the garage servicing the car and it should be possible to change the service settings and also the oil specifications to suit

It sounds like it is the spiral cable (SRS clock spring) which connects the SRS and other steering functions to the vehicle As the steering wheel turns you can hear a grating noise and this is a telltale sign that the cable is breaking up or rubbing through Has the car had any work done to it recently? (Steering Rack, Tracking, Steering Wheel removed, etc)?

Not sure of wire gauge but will be relatively thin as not a huge current going through them. If in doubt go for the larger diameter wire as can carry higher current and should still crimp into a connector without any issues

Hi It is worth checking the ABS sensors to ensure they are functioning correctly as this can cause a similar issue. Scan for fault codes as this will direct you more specifically to a fault within the vehicle

You don't mention which engine it has but if it is a diesel engine then it may be air in the fuel filter area and also check for intercooler hose connections to ensure they are tight If not rectified then maybe take it back to the garage who did the work for them to check it over

Possibly if you loosen the intercooler clamps then you may be able to bias slightly further away so it doesn't rub

Not sure about this one, sorry but may need to consult the handbook to see if it is possible

Stuck on splines and not moving off from engaged position? Incorrect plate or release bearing is keeping it depresses Sounds like you need to remove the gearbox and see what is happening in there

Could have a vacuum leak or air mass meter, you would really need to carry out a scan of the Engine Management Control Unit to see what fault codes are stored to better determine the cause

I would definitely replace the battery if it has been on there for a few years as it seems to be losing its charge and not recovering. A healthy battery can lose its charge if the door light or radio has been on and flattened it but recover after a few minutes to then be able to start the engine. If not, then you need to replace it with a good quality battery.....try Halfords for a replacement and think they will test for free but charge to replace it

I would take it back to the dealer and let them test drive it to see what is occurring and rectify it as necessary, as they were the last ones to touch the car then the responsibility lies with them to ensure it is safe to drive. I would go with the mechanic on the test drive to confirm they have witnessed it and know where to look.....maybe needs the TCM reprogramming?

Poor quality connection, would look to see if the terminals have corrosion or could be slight closed up enough to make good contact

Definitely looks like the damper which is leaking oil that is the culprit and you would need to renew them as a pair

Feel free to list in the For Sale section below

Seems to be very cold and damp this winter, both inside cars and also houses. Warm inside, cold outside with little ventilation is the cause of condensation. You can use silica crystals or salt in a pot to draw down the moisture and Halfords sell a condensation bag (full of silica crystals) which works really well https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=halfords+condensation+bag&_sacat=131090&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=karcher+window+vacuum&_osacat=131090 Otherwise it is a case of drying the interior or using an electric squeegy (Karcher do a great one) https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1311&_nkw=karcher+window+vacuum&_sacat=131090

Plastic clips which pull out (and sometimes break) usually hold the panels in place. see if you can pull it back far enough to see what else is retaining it

I would imagine most of the braking system is from the Passat so would be plenty of parts available

It appears to be a shift solenoid at fault but would require a specialist garage or transmission specialist to diagnose, repair and reprogramme the transmission

Try running hot (but not boiling) water through the washer reservoir and see if this dissolves any residue that is lurking at the bottom

I know the angle you are coming from as some engines crave for another gear when the revs are high on a motorway. However, another move may be to fit a tuning box, had one on my Honda CR-V and that worked a treat to improve rpm and also to increase the mpg at very little cost. Another benefit is that it also allows the engine to run at higher revs which keeps everything clean, EGR, DPF, etc

Maybe worth contacting companies such as DemonTweeks who would sell urethane bush kits for VW and possibly they can cross-refer to your model from a Passat for example

I don't know of any other way as one phone controls and apart from switching over each time I'm not sure of anything else that will sort that issue